A Day in Hong Kong

How You Might Spend a Day in Hong Kong

Hong Kong is a big city. It fans out across the north side of Hong Kong Island, across the harbor and up the Kowloon Peninsula. And that’s not to mention the two-hundred-plus other islands that make up the territory. Over a visit of several days, you’ll want to venture out and see as much of it as you can. But for a single day, we’ll keep it local.

Start your day early, at Victoria Peak, the highest point on Hong Kong Island. From there, head down to Central for sum yum cha. Then, cross the harbor to TST and find out why it is sometimes referred to as “the dark side.” Finally, return to Central and finish your day with dinner and drinks.

Get to know the city from on high

If you've arrived to Hong Kong from somewhere in the western hemisphere, you're probably feeling the jet lag. Why not take advantage by getting up early to catch the sunrise?

There is perhaps no better place to take in the city than from the commanding heights of Victoria Peak, known colloquially as The Peak. I often like starting my time in a new place by going somewhere that gives me a vantage. The Peak Tram is the most scenic way to get up and down, but it doesn’t start operating until 8:00 am. Instead, catch a taxi from your hotel. Depending on where you’re staying the ride should take no more than twenty minutes.

Once you’ve seen the sunrise, what you do from there will depend on how you’re feeling. If you’re wide awake, have a walk around the area and soak up the panoramic views. There is an observation deck and some shops, but they don’t open until later in the morning.

The tram down starts running at 8:00 am on weekends, but not until 10:00 am during the week. You can walk down via a paved path, but be warned, it’s quite steep in some sections. If you’re too early for the tram and don’t fancy walking, catch a taxi or bus down. If the line isn’t too long, try the No 1 minibus.

If you’re feeling hungry, make your first meal of the day something quintessentially Cantonese, dim sum. Choices abound, but if you’re coming down from The Peak on the minibus, the last stop is the International Finance Center, or IFC, where you can find Tim Ho Wan. The original Tim Ho Wan, located in Sham Shui Po, was once the cheapest restaurant in the world to boast a Michelin star. This location in IFC was the second to open, but there are now franchises around the world. Try the baked BBQ pork buns.

Technically, dim sum refers to the dumplings and other dishes served, but the practice of going to brunch for tea and dim sum is usually referred to as yum cha, which translates as “drink tea.” If you want more of a traditional yum cha experience, try Maxim’s Palace in City Hall. On Sunday, Maxim’s opens at 9:00 am, but every other day of the week, you’ll have to wait until 11:00 am.

Venture to “dark side”

After you’ve surveyed the city from on high, sampled some dim sum, and maybe gotten a bit of rest, I suggest you venture over to the other side of Hong Kong Harbour, to the Kowloon Peninsula, which is the city’s largest landmass. At the tip of the peninsula, you’ll find the area of Tsim Sha Tsui, or TST.

To get to TST you catch the Star Ferry, another quintessentially Hong Kong experience. There have been rumors that the Star Ferry is in imminent danger of shutting down for lack of revenue, so take the brief but scenic ride while you can.

TST is home to two of Hong Kong’s best shopping centers, a museum and a performing arts center. It’s home to some of Hong Kong’s finest hotels, as well as some of its cheapest accommodations. What you do in TST will reflect your tastes. If you want to get straight to shopping, take a left when you leave the ferry and you’ll be at the Harbour City Mall, the city’s biggest. Otherwise, take a right and stroll the TST Promenade, where you will find the Avenue of the Stars and its statue of Hong Kong’s favorite son.

If you’re a fan of Hong Kong cinema, you’ve likely heard of Chungking Mansions, perhaps the most famous building in TST. In Hong Kong, buildings are like neighborhoods to themselves. Chungking mansions is 17 stories and five blocks of shops, stalls, restaurants, guest houses, wholesales businesses and more, mostly catering to Hong Kong’s immigrant community. This immigrant community is the genesis of the term, “dark side,” although today this is an obvious anachronism. Hong Kong is one of the safest cities on the planet and Chungking Mansions is no exception.

Have a walk around Chungking and Mirador Mansion next door to get a taste of Hong Kong’s density and diversity. If you haven’t had lunch, try some of the city’s best ethnic cuisine. Two good choices are the Bismallah Kebab House and Ghana Locals.

Sample Central’s nightlife

Hong Kong is a great nightlife city, with a range of options. Since we’re focusing on Central, I suggest starting your evening with a happy hour drink at Tai Kwun, which was once the Central police station and prison. It’s been renovated and, in 2018, opened as a heritage and arts center and is home to several bars and restaurants. This is a great place for people-watching and most of the spots here have a happy hour special.

From there your dinner options are many. But one of the staples of Hong Kong cuisine is roasted meat. One of the best places for that is Yung Kee. I first came here for their roast goose, but in my opinion, they also have some of the best char siu (roast pork) in town.

Yung Kee also happens to be right around the corner from Lan Kwai Fung, which is the beating heart of Hong Kong’s nightlife. The crowds here aren’t back to what they were prior to 2020, but it’s still someplace to see and experience.

If LKF is too hectic for you, then have a quick stroll through and head somewhere more discerning. My suggestion is ARGO at the Four Seasons for delicious cocktails in a beautiful space.

This is by no means an exhaustive list of things to do. It’s just a suggestion as to how you might spend a day in Hong Kong.