The Apurva Kempinski: Bali’s Most Stunning Resort
This is the most architecturally stunning property I’ve ever stayed.
What’s it like to stay at the Apurva Kempinski?
On the backside of the lobby of the Apurva Kempinski are a couple of balconies affording one heck of a view, down the front of the resort’s main building and out over the two adjacent wings extending towards the shore. The resort’s lush tropical landscaping creates a unique vista down the length of the resort, over the center pools, past the brilliantly shining beach and out into the Indian Ocean. Maybe one day you’ll find yourself standing on one of these balconies, nursing a welcome drink and waiting for your room to be ready. When that day comes, you’ll likely be thinking to yourself, “I’ve done something right.”
Continue reading below to see impressions of my stay at The Apurva Kempinski, located in Nusa Dua, on the eastern side of Bali’s southern peninsula. If you’d just like to know whether I’d recommend the resort, then scroll down to the last section.
This view...
The Apurva Kempinski sits towards the south end of Nusa Dua, on the eastern side of Bali’s southern peninsula. Nusa Dua is mostly known for its 5-star resorts, which sit on some of the island’s best beaches. The Kempinski is one of the area’s newer additions, having opened in 2019. The car ride from Denpasar airport is approximately 30 minutes. You can arrange a transfer with the hotel for between USD50 and USD60, depending on whether you opt for one of the hotel cars or through an outside car service. You can also take a Bluebird taxi for <USD20 but there’s something to be said for the convenience of someone meeting you at arrivals.
You enter the resort through this courtyard, following the path around the central pool to the lobby.
Impressive from the moment of arrival.
The Apurva Kempinski is rooted in traditional Indonesian design, and at a scale not like many other places on the island. As the resort’s name hints, Bali is a traditionally Hindu island. Bali and its immediate neighbor Java were ruled by a succession of Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms prior to the 16th century when the Dutch founded the colony that would later become the nation of Indonesia and Islam came to dominate as the major religion.
The lobby is in the form of a pendopo, a pavilion-like structure that is typical of Javanese houses and compounds. Pendopos were used to greet important guests as well as gathering place for royals and their ministers, for scribes, musicians, or other important members of the community. I saw several of these structures in use when I visited the Sultan’s Palace in Yogyakarta in Central Java. The design represents both the Javanese heritage of the Majapahit Empire, as well as having many facets reflecting a specifically Balinese heritage, for instance, the design of the main building having is inspired by the island’s terraced rice paddies and by the subak irrigation system.
The first striking element is this large art piece sitting at the lobby entrance. It rises like a flame towards the tiered roof, granting a good sense of scale.
I stayed in a Grand Deluxe room, which are all located in the two wings, numbered 11 and 12, extending towards the beach on either side of the center pools.
The Apurva has some of the most distinctive rooms in Bali.
Generally, the most impressive rooms in Bali will be villas. Here at the Kempinski, that distinction belongs to the cliff suites, which boast private pools along with stunning views. For this visit I don’t have one of these suites. I’m staying in a standard room. A little bit sad? Yes, but it does stoke my motivation to get back here and experience one of the premium room categories.
I’m staying in a Grand Deluxe Garden View room, which is the entry-level category. The Grand Deluxe rooms are split between Garden View rooms which face outwards from the property, and Ocean Court rooms, which face into the interior of the resort. I paid USD311 for a Grand Deluxe Garden view room; this was during off-peak season and included taxes and fees, but not breakfast. Ocean Court rooms will run ~USD30 more. And for ~USD420, you can book a room with direct access to the lagoon pools that sit adjacent to the building.
The cliff suites start at ~USD650, which gets you into a Junior Suite of 1,076 sq ft (100 sq m) with a private pool. Another USD100 or so on top of that, will get you an ocean view from one of the higher floors. USD650 will also get you a one-bedroom villa and for ~USD1,000 you get a two-bedroom.
Welcome to Room 6215.
Yes, if you come to a resort like this and opt for an entry-level room, you will have to temper your expectations… but thankfully not by much. At 699 sq ft (65sq m) the Grand Deluxe rooms are quite spacious; and well-laid out (with one notable flaw). The elegance of the lobby design carries over to the guest rooms. The Kempinski manages to be both contemporary and true to traditional Balinese style at the same time. By comparison, I stayed at the Alila Seminyak a couple of days before the Kempinski and it is a very modern and chic property, but there’s not much that feels particularly Balinese over there.
If you’re the kind of person who tends to spend a lot of time in your room, then definitely spring for one of the suites. The combination of the dark color palate and the forest-facing window lends the room a drab air. That said, the beds are comfortable, there’s a nice lounging area and a walk-in closet. The balcony is a nice space; although, heat, humidity and bugs may limit the amount of time you can tolerate out here. While the room is clad in dark materials, the bathroom is the opposite, quite light and airy. I’m a big fan of the large bath tub; although I never got to enjoy it. The one flaw mentioned earlier: the placement of the closet next to the front door, with no direct access from the bathroom.
The rest of the resort.
The resort fronts the Indian Ocean in a picturesque stretch of beach. Yes, the best beaches in Nusa Dua for bathing and swimming are to be found a bit further north. But I couldn’t find a whole lot to complain about here. The sand is soft and white, the loungers are plentiful, and the views are stunning, both from the resort and of the resort.
Located right next to the beach, you’ll find the Reef Beach Club. Beach clubs are a fixture in Bali. Think of them as resorts without the rooms. Somewhere you can go and stake out a lounger and place a by the pool and eat, drink and be merry. Calling this a beach club is a bit of a gimmick, but you get the idea. I had a late lunch here on the day I checked-in, something very simple. But the menu has more to offer. And if it’s a meal on the beach you fancy, that can be arranged.
The resort has several pools, including a family pool with a water slide. Right next to the family pool is the kids club. The resort’s main pool is down closer to the beach. Besides its size and its position facing the beach, the thing I like is these crenelations lining the outside. They create these little private areas around the much bigger wide-open pool. It’s the best of both worlds.
Between the two pools is the Pala Restaurant, the hotel’s all-day, international restaurant, and where breakfast is served. The breakfast buffet looked pretty good. But unfortunately, I had a bit of Bali belly the morning I stayed and didn’t sample much of what was on offer. Pala Restaurant also has a rooftop bar. Right next to Pala, or rather underneath, you’ll find Koral, where you can dine in the midst of an aquarium. The resort’s other food and beverage outlets include Izakaya by Oku, Bai Yun for Chinese, as well as the Selasar Deli just off the lobby.
Lastly, just below the lobby level. Here you’ll find the gym and the spa. I didn’t have any spa treatments this trip, but I did check out the gym. It’s a good-sized gym for the size of the resort and there’s a good mix of strength and cardio equipment.
Dos and Don’ts
I’m not a hotel reviewer. I only want to show you around a bit. That said, I do like to provide a little context to help you decide if the Apurva Kempinski is the right property for you. So, do stay at this hotel if… Just do. You should stay at this hotel. If it’s in your budget and you appreciate this kind of exceptional architecture, I highly recommend the Apurva Kempinski, especially if you’re reserving one of the cliff suites.
My superfluous and shameless praise aside, there are reasons why you might want to stay somewhere else. For instance, if you’re a fan or have high status with another hotel chain. There’s a Ritz Carlton and a St. Regis in Nusa Dua that are both at a comparable, if not higher level of luxury, as well as a Conrad just north of here that is an excellent value for the rate. And yes, Nusa Dua is about the resorts. There’s not so much going on here outside of them. So, if you want to be closer to nightlife and sights, you may wish to consider a different location in Bali.
I will note that my estimation of this hotel is relative to the rates. I’ve not stayed at the Ritz Carlton next door, but my guess is they offer a more typical high-touch luxury service experience, but at rates 15-to-20% higher.
